Before launching Triumph & Disaster we made the decision that we would not call ourselves 100% Natural. Despite the fact many companies out there make such claims, we just felt that it was not the whole truth. It's not that we didn’t start out with 'Natural' in our heads, we did.
We briefed our chemists to engineer perfect 100% natural products, natural solutions with no hint of science or nasty chemicals. And so they did and we were stoked. We sat back in our leather armchairs with lighted stogies and patted ourselves on the back for creating unique high performing and 100% natural products - stoked.
Then we slept on it and lived with it a while, we started to explore the in's and outs of the industry and the hard facts of some of the claims people were making. We noticed even the most earnest brands using language like; ‘the maximum amount of natural and organic ingredients’ or ‘natural ingredients may undergo some ecological processing’ and we saw people using the term ‘Organic’ as a general fix all for ‘green’ credentials.
In other words we started to feel, well, uneasy.
See it turns out there is no ‘legal’ definition of ‘Natural’ when it comes to beauty products, each manufacturer is free to define it as they wish and market their products as natural regardless of the ingredients they use – true story. This means companies can define 'Natural' on their own terms, ignoring the chemical processes and reactions that many raw materials go through as we engineer them for our purposes.
By the same token we also think there is a lot of scare mongering and frankly ill-informed views on what is good and bad for both the consumer and the environment being fed to us from different quarters.
So what to do? Well we decided to do our own bit of self branding, faux science, slight of hand, hoopla stuff and come clean, sort of like a gentlemen’s double bluff if you will.
That is, we believe in nature as a rule but we acknowledge that the moment you start tinkering; turning proteins into amino acids, splitting fat molecules, effecting hydrolysis, executing esterification or hydrogenation…well it just don’t feel all that Natural anymore.
SO, we are forced to believe in science...and we do believe.
The good news is there’s some crack hot science out there, simple science designed to make products perform better, behave more safely and be cleaner for you and the environment.
This is the kind of science we believe in, simple natural formulations engineered with honest intentions to produce progressive, safe products - sort of like alchemy, although if it were actual alchemy we may not be having this conversation.
We stand behind all our claims and will always strive to be at the forefront of this ethos that combines science and nature for your benefit. And if this ain’t enough, all our ingredients meet the criteria set out in the European Union Directive for Cosmetic Safety (the highest court in the land).
Almond Milk - Softens and moisturises. Used in our A+R Soap
Argan Oil - Packed full of Vitamin E and Omega 3, 6 and 9, Argan oil from the kernels of Morocco’s Argan tree (Argania Spinosa) is seen as a wonder ingredient for skin and hair with its amazing healing, antioxidant and moisturising properties that combat problem skin and fight free radicals, whilst nourishing and hydrating skin and hair. A genuine all-rounder!
Aqua – Pure sterilised water (the hard stuff) adds moisture to formulations.
Beeswax - Made by our humble little friends to raise their young within, the benefits to our hair are plentiful adding texture and volume that makes it appear stronger and thicker and makes it easier to mould and style. Beeswax assists in preventing split ends whilst delivering shine and natural protection from the elements – it’s like the best older brother you ever had. Beeswax has your back.
Bentonite - Naturally occurring hydrated aluminosilicate of sodium, calcium, magnesium, and iron. Used medicinally for hundreds of years by indigenous cultures around the planet and now used by us.
Benzyl Alcohol – Is a naturally occurring essential oil component with antimicrobial properties. You will find this in our moisturiser.
Black Clay - Naturally occurring clay. Sounds cool, looks cool, is cool.
Black Iron Oxide – Iron Oxides are naturally occurring mineral deposits, however Iron Oxides used in cosmetic and personal care products are synthetic. The role of oxides is to impart colour.
Brazil Wax (Copernicia Cerifera) - Back in the day your grandpa might have cleaned his tobacco pipe with it, in the sixties and seventies it was used as a coating on powerboat hulls to enhance speed and handling through the water and it is still used today in many brands of surf wax for much the same properties. In Coltrane it helps create the hold and waterproofing to give your look longevity.
Burdock Root Extract - Is a natural extract of the roots of Arctium Lappa. Burdock root is an antibacterial, anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory agent. It has been used to treat eczema, acne, psoriasis, and wounds.
Camelia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract – Derived from the plant leaf, green tea is an antioxidant and helps protect from free-radical damage. Phosphates in Green Tea also assist with UV filtering.
Carbomer - Nothing to do with a group of insurgents everything to do with a series of polymers primarily made from acrylic acid. Carbomers help to distribute or suspend an insoluble solid in a liquid. We use it to keep our moisturizer emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components.
Cetearyl Alcohol - A fatty acid hailing from plant oils, cetearyl alcohol is fantastic for hydrating and softening the skin as an emulsifier.
Cetearyl Alcohol & PEG-20 Stearate - Vegetable based emulsifier wax used for combining oil and water. Derived from plant-based fancy alcohols and derivatives. Used in No Dice.
Cetearyl Glucoside - Is a vegetable emulsifier, derived from coconut and glucose. It is readily biodegradable and is non-irritant, hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic…yeehaa.
Cetyl Alcohol – A vegetable source fatty alcohol derived from natural oils and fats, used to thicken and stabilize.
Cetearyl Olivate - An emulsifier derived from Olive oil, it aids in hydrating skin by reinforcing the lipid barrier and preventing moisture from evaporating.
Citric Acid – Awesome pH balancer, preservative and astringent – comes from citrus fruit.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine - A mild amphoteric surfactant produced from coconut oil.
Coco Caprylate - Derived from coconuts and a great natural alternative to silicones. It provides a lubricating and softening effect upon application, for a silky and smooth effect.
Coco-Glucoside & Glyceryl Oleate - Naturally derived from coconut (coco glucoside) and sunflower oil (glyceryl oleate), an extremely mild and effective cleanser that rinses quickly, it is biodegradable and offers a natural alternative to harsh chemicals.
Cyclotetrasiloxane & Cyclopentasiloxane – A non-greasy, water resistance ingredient used in our sunscreen and derived from silica.
Decyl Glucoside - A nonionic surfactant, a combination of plant based fatty alcohols and glucose, puts the foam in our cleansing products.
Dehydoacetic Acid - Widely considered as one of the mildest preservatives, Dehydroacetic Acid works alongside Benzyl Alcohol as a preservative in multiple T&D products.
Dimethicone – Secondary water resistance ingredient also used in our sunscreen derived from silica.
Ferric Oxide – An iron-based inorganic colourant, we like to call it ‘downtown brown’, others might just call it, well, brown.
Glyceryl Monostearate – Comes from plant oils this is a crack hot emulsifier.
Green Clay - Clay with astringent qualities, helps to clean the skin by drawing out impurities
Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinesis) – Has been hailed a miraculous natural oil for skin and hair because of it's similar molecular structure to youthful skin sebum. It contains powerful antioxidants, is rich in vitamins A, D & E along with Omega 6 & 9 fatty acids. We use it for its moisturising, glide and antioxidant benefits.
Kaolin – Clay with astringent qualities, helps to clean the skin by drawing out impurities, known to improve lymphatic flow and increase circulation as well.
Kawakawa Leaf Extract - Kawakawa in Māori refers to the bitter taste of the leaves, from kawa meaning bitter. Kawakawa or NZ Pepper Tree was one of the most important plants in Rongoa (medicine), Maori used it externally for cuts, wounds and bruises and also applied it as a treatment for toothache, nettle stings and eczema. All of which leads us to believe that it makes for a great ingredient in a cleansing, calming body wash.
Lanolin – A powerful emollient with protective properties. Went out of fashion for a while and still the fact that it is off a sheep’s back freaks some people out. Having sheared a few sheep during summer holidays, we reckon its God's own moisturiser.
Lecithin - Derived from soybeans. It acts as a natural emulsifier in Gameface as well as soothing and moisturising agent on the skin.
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate - A natural clay that contains Aluminum – have no fear as this cannot be absorbed into the skin due the molecules being too big to pass through the skins cells.
Marine Collagen - Has been widely used in Japan for many years as a natural health supplement, in our wash it acts as a hydrating agent and aids water retention on the skin whilst creating a smooth silky feeling on the surface of the skin.
Myristyl Myristate - A vegetable derived ester, combination of myristyl alcohol and myristic acid, for use as a co-emulsifier and opacifier.
Natural Betaine - Extracted from the molasses of beet sugar it works with surfactants, to form a stable, aqueous solutions and delivers effective moisturizing and water-holding properties.
Neroli Oil (Citrus Aurantium) - Is a plant oil produced from the blossom of the bitter orange tree. This essential oil has great therapeutic properties and unique smell. It has a wonderful rejuvenating and regenerative effect on the skin and adds to our bespoke fragrance in our YLF.
Oat Flakes - Used as a mild exfoliant in A+R soap.
Panthenol - A form of Vitamin B5 commonly derived from plants, Panthenol acts as a lubricant on the skin surface, giving skin a soft and smooth appearance.
Papaver Somniferum (Poppy) Seed - First cultivated by ancient civilizations thousands of years ago Opium poppies have been called many things including 'the plant of joy', we just liked the seeds.
PEG 29 Castor Oil - Naturally derived emulsifier. Castor Oil is obtained by the cold pressing of seeds of the Ricinus communis plant followed by clarification of the oil by heat.
Peppermint Oil - Mentha Piperita is a herb, being a cross between two types of mint (water mint and spearmint), in addition to its antiseptic nature it provides a stimulating aroma to our cleanser.
Polysorbate 60 - Polysorbates are a group of emulsifiers used in food, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Our naturally derived polysorbates are used to solubilize essential oils into products with a water base.
Ponga Fern (Cyathea Cumingii) Leaf Extract - Is a species of fern that grows in New Zealand. For centuries Maori people used the pulp from young fronds of the Cyathea tree ferns for their wound-healing properties, we use it in our moisturizer for much the same reason.
Pongamia Pinnata Seed Oil - Derived from Millettia Pinnata tree, Pongamia oil is extracted from the seeds by expeller or cold pressing and has many traditional uses including as a natural antiseptic. We have used this as a natural preservative in our Coltrane Clay.
Pracaxi Seed Oil - Found in the deepest darkest Amazon Pracaxi oil is obtained by a natural (Chemical Free) cold press process that draws the oil from the seeds and flesh. The secrets of the Pracaxi seed have been widely known in the Amazon for generations where it has been used on anything from acne and burns to body and hair oil. In Coltrane it is an awesome conditioning agent and works in combination with the waxes and clays to leave hair feeling smooth and soft.
Propylene Glycol - Vegetable glycerin mixed with grain alcohol, Propylene Glycol is used to help stabilise formulations whilst having moisturising qualities.
Pseudowintera Colorata - Also known as Horopito or New Zealand Pepper Tree, this little gem has been used by Maori for centuries for all kinds of ailments, we use it for its healing properties in our moisturiser.
Red 33 - Mineral colour pigment iron oxide red. Used in YLF.
Rosehip Oil - Essential oil that treats, heals and protects.
Rosewood Oil - Has significant antibacterial properties, is known to plump the skin, reduce redness, eliminate dryness and improve overall skin clarity. We use it to fight dull, dry and oily skin, and it adds a mellow sweet fragrance to our wash.
Salicylic Acid – Natural preservative hails from the bark of willow trees. You will find this in our moisturiser and cleanser.
Sandalwood - A fragrant essential oil with anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties.
Sodium Benzoate & Potassium Sorbate - Naturally derived Sodium Benzoate (sodium salt of benzoic acid ) and Potassium Sorbate (Potassium salt of sorbic acid) are used as a secondary preservative ingredient in our wash.
Sodium Chloride – Organic salts.
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate - Derived from coconut oil and used as a surfactant in our face scrub, it cleans the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away.
Sodium Hydroxide - Organic salts.
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate - Prepared from fatty acids and sarcosine. This is the primary surfactant in our facial cleanser and plant based.
Sodium Palmate - Synthesized by reacting palm oil with sodium hydroxide. This process is called saponification, which occurs when a fatty acid reacts with an alkali, in this case producing an efficient surfactant and emulsifying agent that is a key ingredient in soap.
Sodium Palm Kernelate - Salt of palm oil, obtained from the fruit of palm oil tree.
Sodium Phytate - Salt of Phytic Acid, it occurs in nature in the seeds of cereal grains and has strong antioxidant properties.
Solastay S1™ (Zinc Oxide & Caprylic/Capria Triglyceride & Polyhydroxystearic Acid & Isostearic Acid)
Awesome natural Zinc based UV protection in our No Dice Sunscreen. Zinc Oxide - prevents UV light from hitting the skin. Think of it as a physical barrier that reflects the sun's UV rays and prevents them from damaging your skin. Because zinc oxide is not absorbed into the skin, it is nonirritating, nonallergenic, and non-comedogenic, meaning it feels good on and doesn’t clog pores.
Sorbic Acid – Organic salts.
Sorbitan Olivate – From olive oil this is a great emulsifier that helps soften skin.
Stearic Acid - A natural fatty acid derived from vegetable oil. In our sunscreen this ingredient is used as a secondary emulsifier, structurant and consistency enhancing agent.
Stearyl Alcohol - Is a naturally fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid, coconut oil or vegetable fatty acids, and is used to soothe and soften as a conditioning agent and as an emulsifier. It can also be used to thicken formulas, adding body and viscosity.
Tamanu Oil – Used to heal wounds by native Tahitians for centuries, Tamanu oil is a modern day ‘wonder’ plant that has become renowned for its antibacterial and healing qualities.
Tapioca Starch - Extracted from the root of the Manihot esculenta plant. Native to the Amazon, tapioca is now cultivated worldwide and has many names, including cassava, bitter-cassava, manioc.
Tetrasodium EDTA – Common ingredient in soap that works to soften water molecules and preserve the soap.
Titanium Dioxide - High refractive index, strong UV light absorbing capabilities and resistance to discolouration under ultraviolet light. Sunscreens designed for infants or people with sensitive skin are often based on titanium dioxide as these mineral UV blockers are believed to cause less skin irritation than other UV absorbing chemicals.
Tocopheryl Acetate – Naturally derived from Soybeans, Tocopheryl Acetate helps to protect against free radical damage and plays an important role in our moisturiser.
Triethanolamine – Synthetic thickening agent in No Dice.
Vegetable Petrolatum - A completely plant based alternative to standard petroleum with similar physical characteristics and properties. Vegetable Petrolatum can be used as a thickener and has excellent moisturising and barrier protection properties. Used as a humectant in our hair products.
Volcanic Ash - Volcanic ash is used as a mild, gentle and totally natural exfoliant, we use it in our scrub to help remove the outer layer of dead skin cells.
Xantham Gum – Derived from sugar syrup Xantham gum is used to stabilise and thicken formulations.
Copaiba Oil, Eucalyptus, Almond, Grapefruit, Bergamot, Mint, Peppermint, Cedarwood, Patchouli, Spearmint, Marjoram, Galbanum, Anise, Pine, Pepper, Peru, Lavender, Jasmine, Geranium, Clove, Ylang, Sandalwood, Cinnamon, Orange.